https://richsoil.com/hugelkultur/
I have used this system for the last two years, it produces amazing crops
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https://richsoil.com/hugelkultur/
I have used this system for the last two years, it produces amazing crops
Very interesting, thank you.
you are welcome, if i may be of any assistance, just let me know :smiley-dance013:
Well, we've just had a bunch of trees cut down and there are many wood chips available so it looks like I can set something up to sit over winter and then try it out in the spring.
Should be fun! (and a good bit of work):ok:
I watched a couple vids and read a couple articles.
Straw bale gardens require less soil, less water and hold heat. As the straw breaks down nutrients feed the plants. Combining a straw surround with a hugel interior, topped by lasagne layering is an excellent idea for an area with poor quality soil.
https://www.permaculture.co.uk/sites.../strawbale.jpg
https://www.permaculture.co.uk/sites...heet-mulch.jpg
Thanks, Modwiz.
I really liked the lasagne image. It may be because I've made homemade lasagne twice this year using greens from the CSA. It was so good.
I find the idea of garden dirt lasagne very appealing.
More tips:
Quote:
Plant immediately. If you are not ready to plant your hugel beds yet, at the very least install an annual cover crop to hold the soil. You can use an annual pea or bean to help to build the fertility in the soil. I planted a variety of perennials and a few self-seeding annual herbs and fruits. I have seen video footage of permaculture people throwing out seed mixes on hugel berms. I decided to take the extra time to plant my polyculture based on the plants desire for varying degrees of sun, shade, moist, and dry conditions. I also planted the seed one variety at a time, so I could get the proper planting depth required for each plant. In this situation, where I am planting high value fruits and herbs it was worth taking the extra time to plant to ensure the best germination. I also made small terraces by hand when I was planting my very high value perennial fruit seed.
Quote:
Plants on the South or Sunny Side
(Arranged from the top, which is dry to the bottom which is moist)
White Yarrow- Nutrient accumulator, pollinator attractor, insectary
Cilantro- Edible, Insectary, Pollinator Attractor
Beach Plum- Insectary, Animal Forage/ Habitat, Edible
Common Apple- Insectary, Animal Forage/ Habitat, Edible
European Plum- Insectary, Animal Forage/ Habitat, Edible
Golden Currant- Insectary, Animal Forage/ Habitat, Edible
Fennel- Insectary, Animal Forage/ Habitat, Edible, Nutrient Accumulator
Roman Chamomile- Insectary, Tea
Parsley- Edible, Medicinal, Animal Forage
Quote:
Plants on the North or Shady Side
(Arranged from the top, which is dry to the bottom which is moist)
Chicory- Insectary, Pollinator Attractor, Edible, Nutrient Accumulator
Hazelnut- Edible, Animal Forage
Purple Coneflower- Insectary, Medicinal, Pollinator Attractor
Seaberry- N-fixer, Animal Forage/ Habitat, Medicinal, Edible
Serviceberry- Insectary, Animal Forage/ Habitat, Edible
Garlic- Nutrient Accumulator, Edible, Medicinal
Red Mulberry- Edible fruit, Bird Habitat & Forage, Dyes
Bartlett Pear- Insectary, Animal Forage/ Habitat, Edible
Wild Lupine- N-fixer, Edible, Insectary
from Phil WilliamsQuote:
10. Mulch over your seed. The problem with large hugelkultur berms is that it is difficult to hold the seeds in place on the steep sides and get germination. I used a biodegradable straw seed mat that I staked into place with sod spikes. The sod spikes were not necessary though as simple sticks shoved through the mat worked fine as well.
thank you, that idea looks great, one of my favourite sights in our garden is spotting bees and bumblebees, hopping around, i always sow borage among the vegetables, bees LOVE it, oh of course you have to sow nasturtium, really pretty, and both have edible flowers
So good to know, and so much to learn.
I thought this was helpful as well:
Some people try for mandala type designs. I will just have some mounds here and there.Quote:
SUN
Some hugul beds are built running east-west so that the mounded bed has a variety of microclimates — a hot and sunny south side and a cooler and shaded north side — to take advantage of. If you plan on using your hugel for vegetable production, it can make sense to run the bed north-south so your crops receive more even light exposure.
WATER
Look at the water flow in your garden and pinpoint both the low lying, moist or mucky areas and the areas that drain like a sieve. Positioned strategically, a sponge-like hugel can soak up or redirect excess water, but too much water, pooling or flowing along the side of the bed, can undermine the bed’s structure.
WIND
A hugel bed, particularly a large one, will modify the air-flow in your yard.
Think about:
Where the dominant winds come from in your climate
What areas might benefit from a wind block in your garden
How a large mound in your yard might modify air flow and what the impact of that might be
How a hugel might change existing frost pockets and microclimates
And what you plan to grow in your hugel, because crops planted on the top will have to cope with considerable wind if the hugel is in an exposed, windy location.
SHAPE
Hugels are not typically framed in or edged and tend to be more freeform in their look and design. So, a hugel needn't to be conventionally rectilinear! Consider gentle arcs, open bowls, or whatever shape the considerations of light, water, wind, and existing terrain suggest.
This isn't exactly hugelkulture, but as a container design, which some have adapted to hugelkulture, it's great.
Here's a keyhole design. The compost is in the middle and when watered, the nutrients spread into the soil.
https://cdn.1millionwomen.com.au/med...ole_garden.jpg
image of a red cabbage from my hugel kultur
file:///C:/Users/owner/Desktop/42988612_163165761256011_4507800002306768896_n.jpg
file:///C:/Users/owner/Desktop/42910106_2438418006183241_6113530941039181824_n.jp g
I'm getting ready to uncover/clear out some areas with cut wood and get the beds ready for winter. I don't know yet what I'll grow on them but it will be a variety of things.
If you go advanced, then pick attachment, you can download photos from your computer.
Very nice! But, um, you might want to upload them as attachments instead? :ttr: The server has no access to your local hard drive, you see. :p
You can read how to upload attachments in this thread here. The attachments will then be uploaded to the server's local storage, and you can then manage your attachments by way of your User Control Panel. For instance, it is possible to reuse already uploaded attachments in future posts — I do that all the time. ;)
Hi dreamtimer, a good idea is to sow green manure first, preferably a nitrogen fixer eg: https://www.growveg.co.uk/guides/gre...-and-the-ugly/
the best of luck my friend